Popayan, day four part two Coconuco

At this point in my trip I was settled, relaxed, and ready for more.  Having first experienced hot springs in Mexico last December, I was eager to try them in Colombia.  Jose and Elsa had mentioned this as a possibility before so we decided to take the trip from Silvia back through Popayan to Coconuco.  There are two types of hot springs locations there, one is Aguas Herviendo which is 'boiling water' and the other is Agua Tibia, where we decided to go.  Jose and I enjoyed the two springs there.  One was about 5.5 deep and lukewarm.  It was transparent so that you could go underwater, see across to the other end, and not feel salt or chlorine.  The other spring was a brownish tinged water, warmer and shallower.  Both were enjoyable in their own way.

Coconuco is 2850 meters above sea level and near Purace National park.  Located in the central Andean range, it's a small town the relies heavily on the tourism to the two hot springs.  The views from the springs are as nice as the water.

I find with hot springs that the benefits are temporary.  It feels so relaxing to be in this special water but I've found that the buzz wears off within hours.  Nevertheless any day that I could be relaxing in a hot spring would be better than most.  I highly recommend Aguatibia and will definitely go back if I ever return.

Popayan day three, part one, Andean condors

Most of what the Hotel La Plazuela gives its visitors in colonial charm it takes back in its colonial installations, namely its beds.  I felt the 6:30 am wake up would be challenging.  Instead it was a gift for two reasons.  One, to leave the stiff bed, and more importantly to start this exciting day.  Cristian was waiting for me on Calle 5.  As we set out on the curvy roads and started to talk I realized conversation would become intermittent as nearly everything I said or asked about was followed with a 'Sí Señor' by my guide.

Our day was to be spent at a high-altitude national park in the Andes called Puracé.  Our first stop was to see the Andean Condors.  They had once been plentiful in this park but nearly died out due to hunting.  Eleven condors were raised in the San Diego Zoo and then released in this area in Puracé a few years ago.  Only three are thought to be alive or in the area now.  As we climbed up towards 10,000 feet we met up with an indigenous guide named Noel.  He was carrying a pungent bucket with a cow liver.  The three of us hiked as high as we could go on a ridge and Noel placed the organ on a boulder jutting out into the valley.  We then retreated to a vantage point where we could watch the show.  I was told to be patient.  For awhile nothing happened so I decided to walk around in this ecosystem called páramo, a type of alpine tundra.  

As the wind picked up the smell carried and a few bird species lower on the food chain circled about and tried to land on the boulder.  Some could and started to peck away and gobble up the liver.  This continued off and on for around 40 minutes.  Every question or comment about the condors was met with a form of  "Be patient".  I was at ease with whatever outcome because I was in a special place soaking up as much of the beautiful mountain views as I could.  Finally Noel spotted the condors across the valley.  Even if they weren't hungry they would still come to the boulder to assert dominance over the other birds.  A good while later the three flew over, hovering and sizing up the wind gusts and air currents.  Only the male landed and for a few minutes spent time eating about jostling with the other birds.  Some flew away with bits and pieces and a little fell off the boulder.  Within minute the whole show was over and we were heading down to the path to find the truck.

I was tickled by what I saw.  To see animal behavior in such a spectacular setting is something I can't recall having done before.  I felt content already that the long trip was already worth it, and whatever happened the rest of the week was a bonus.  It set me up nicely for what was to come in Puracé and Popayan.